How To Clean a Commercial Kitchen Hood Filter?

If your canopy is louder than normal, smoke hangs in the kitchen, grease smells linger, or you can see drips and sticky film on the underside, your filters are usually overdue. In commercial kitchens, the kitchen hood filter is only one part of the grease path. If grease has moved into the canopy edges, plenum entry, fan housing, or duct entry, airflow and hygiene drop fast and fire risk goes up.

This guide is written for restaurants, cafes, takeaways, and other commercial kitchens. Learn about How To Clean a Kitchen Hood Filter? and it shows how to identify your filter type, clean it safely, clean the canopy capture area properly, test airflow, and spot when the issue is bigger than the removable filters.

What does a commercial hood filter actually do?

A commercial canopy system works like a controlled airflow catch zone over your cooking line. As you cook, smoke, steam, heat, and tiny grease droplets rise into the air. The exhaust fan pulls that contaminated air into the canopy, and the hood filters act as the first barrier by trapping grease droplets before the air travels deeper into the system. Instead of staying airborne and spreading around the kitchen, the captured grease drains down into collection trays or cups, which helps reduce build-up on surfaces and keeps airflow working the way it should.

When filters become dirty or clogged, air can’t pass through freely. The fan has to work harder to pull air, so the system gets louder and less efficient. You’ll notice capture becomes weaker, meaning smoke and fumes escape into the kitchen instead of being pulled into the canopy. At the same time, grease starts spreading and baking onto the underside of the hood, the filter rails, seams, and corners, which makes exhaust filter cleaning harder and odours worse. The key thing to understand is that filters are only the front line. If grease has already moved past the filters into canopy edges, the intake throat, or the entry to the ducting, washing the filters alone won’t fully fix the problem. According to the Australian Institute of Refrigeration, Air Conditioning and Heating (AIRAH) Best Practice Guide on Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Management, regular cleaning and maintenance are crucial to mitigate fire risks associated with grease accumulation.

30-second answer

• Turn the canopy off, let it cool, and follow your site isolation procedure before handling filters.
  
• Identify the filter type: stainless baffle, metal mesh, high-efficiency extractor module, or electrostatic (ESP).
  
• Clean stainless baffles and most metal filters by soaking in hot water with a grease-cutting detergent, then brushing, rinsing, and drying fully.
  
• ESP cells are washable but must be cleaned and dried correctly. Follow manufacturer guidance.
  
• Reinstall and test capture. If suction is still weak, the problem may be grease in the canopy throat, fan housing, or duct entry, or an airflow or make-up air issue.

Step 1: Identify Your Commercial Hood Filter Type

Before you start cleaning, take 2 minutes to confirm what filter you have. Different filter designs trap grease in different ways, so the “right” cleaning approach depends on the material and how grease is held inside the filter. If you use the wrong method, you can bend the filter, damage the internal layers, reduce airflow, or cause a poor seal when you reinstall it.

Why this step matters

• Cleaning results: Some filters release grease quickly, others hold it deep inside.
  
• Safety and damage risk: Mesh and ESP cells can be damaged by aggressive scrubbing or wrong handling.
  
• Kitchen performance: A damaged filter can reduce extraction, increase smoke and odour, and push grease into the ductwork faster.
  
• Compliance and inspections: Filters that are the wrong type for the canopy, or not reinstalled properly, can lead to recurring grease build-up and failed checks.

1) Stainless steel baffle filters (most common in commercial kitchens)

How to recognise them

• They look like solid stainless channels or slats, not a fine screen.
• You will usually see “zig-zag” or “V-shaped” metal paths inside.

How do they trap grease

• Air changes direction as it passes through the channels.
  Grease hits the metal surfaces, then runs down into a grease cup or drip tray.

What does that mean for cleaning

• Often the quickest to clean because grease is mostly on surfaces and channels, not buried deep.
• If they are left too long, grease can harden in corners and edges, so it still needs proper attention.

For tips on handling stainless surfaces effectively, see our article on stainless steel kitchen cleaning.

2) Metal mesh grease filters (used on some canopies and lighter grease sites)

How to recognise them

• They look like a layered metal screen panel, like a thick metallic sponge.
• You cannot clearly see open channels like a baffle filter.

How they trap grease

• Grease sits inside multiple mesh layers.
• The filter can look clean on the outside while still holding grease inside.

What that means for cleaning

• Soaking time matters more than surface wiping, because grease is trapped internally.
  
• Mesh can be easier to bend or deform, especially if the metal is thin. If it is damaged, it may not sit flat and can leak grease around the edges.

3) High-efficiency grease extractors or proprietary modules

How to recognise them

• They are usually deeper and heavier than standard baffle filters.
• They may include special inserts or a specific frame style that matches a particular canopy brand.

How they trap grease

• These systems can combine directional airflow paths, tight tolerances, and special surfaces to capture grease more efficiently.

What that means for cleaning

• The method can vary, so do a quick check for a label, model number, or manufacturer instructions.
  
• If your canopy uses a branded system, the safest approach is to follow the manufacturer guidance so you do not void warranties or reduce performance.

4) Electrostatic precipitator filters (ESP)

How to recognise them

• Often a box-style unit with removable internal cells.
• Common in setups that aim to reduce smoke and fine particles as well as grease.

How they work

• ESP units use charged cells to capture fine particles and grease mist.
• Performance depends on clean, intact internal components.
  

What that means for cleaning

• They are washable, but must be handled carefully.
• Poor cleaning can reduce performance, trigger faults, or cause ongoing smell and smoke issues even after “cleaning.”

Quick checklist to confirm your filter type in under 60 seconds

• Do you see channels or slats? Likely baffle filter.
• Does it look like a layered screen block? Likely mesh filter.
• Is it heavy, deep, or branded with a model label? Likely high-efficiency/proprietary module.
• Is it a box unit with internal cells? Likely ESP.

Step 2: Tools and supplies kit for Clean Kitchen Hood Filter

Essentials

• Grease-cutting detergent or commercial dishwashing liquid
• Very hot water (as hot as you can handle safely)
• Soft brush and non-scratch pad
• Gloves (heat + grease protection)
• Microfiber cloths or disposable wipes
• Drip-safe drying rack or clean drain area
• Bin liners for greasy waste

For heavy grease and busy kitchens

• Food-area suitable degreaser (safe for stainless, and safe to rinse fully)
• Large soak tub that fits baffles flat
• Plastic scraper for thick build-up (before soaking)
• Eye protection (splash risk)
• Wet floor signage and absorbent towels for slip control

Grease management

• Grease cup or drip tray cleaning items
• A simple disposal plan (skim grease, bin it, do not pour oil into drains)

Step 3: Safety First for Kitchen Hood Filter Cleaning

Kitchen hood filter cleaning looks simple, but the risks are real. You are working with sharp metal, slippery grease, hot surfaces, water, and sometimes electrical parts nearby. A safe setup protects you, prevents damage to the canopy and fan, and avoids accidents like burns, chemical splashes, and slips.

Cool down first

Never start while the kitchen is still hot. Filters and canopy surfaces hold heat, and hot grease can splash and burn skin fast. Let the cooking line cool fully before you remove filters or touch any metal parts.

Isolate power and follow site procedure

Before you work near the hood body, follow the site’s isolation process. Do not clean around fan housings, light fittings, switches, or wiring while the unit is running. Moving air can pull spray and mist into electrical areas, and it can also blow drips and splashback back toward your face.

Ventilate the area

Good airflow reduces fumes and makes the job safer and more comfortable. Use general ventilation and make-up air if the site has it. This helps clear degreaser vapours and stops the space from feeling “stuffy,” especially in small kitchens or after-hours cleans.

Wear the right PPE

At a minimum, wear chemical-resistant gloves. Add eye protection when rinsing, spraying, or using degreasers, because splashes can happen when you lift filters or when water hits greasy surfaces. Wear non-slip footwear because water plus grease turns floors into a skating rink.

Do not mix chemicals

Use one product at a time. Mixing products can create dangerous reactions and fumes, and it can also damage stainless steel and nearby finishes. If you need to change products, rinse the filter and work area first so you are not combining residues.

Keep water away from electrical parts

Avoid flooding or spraying directly into light fittings, switches, wiring, control panels, or fan areas. Even “small” water entry can cause faults, corrosion, or shutdowns later. If you need to clean nearby surfaces, use controlled wiping and careful rinsing rather than blasting water into seams and housings.

Control slip hazards immediately

Wet floors plus grease is one of the fastest ways to get injured. Put out a wet floor sign, keep the area restricted, and clean up drips as you go instead of letting water build up. If the kitchen has floor mats, move them out of the area so they do not hide slippery patches.

Handle filters safely

Filters can be heavier than they look, and the edges can be sharp. Support the filter with two hands, keep it level when removing, and avoid twisting or dropping it. A bent filter may not seat properly when reinstalled, which can lead to rattling, poor capture, and grease bypassing into the duct.

Step 4: Clean Stainless Steel Baffle Filters (Fast, Reliable Method)

Stainless steel baffle filters are the most common filter type in commercial kitchens because they are durable and designed to let grease drain away. The goal of cleaning is simple: loosen the grease from the channels, rinse it off completely, and dry the filters properly so they go back in clean, odour-free, and ready to capture grease again.

Remove the filters and grease cup

Start by switching off cooking equipment and making sure the area is safe to work in. Slide or lift the baffle filters out carefully and keep them level so trapped grease does not spill. Remove the grease cup or drip tray, empty it, and wipe it out. If you skip this part, grease will keep overflowing and you will feel like the filters get dirty again too fast.

Pre-scrape thick grease (optional, but saves time)

If the filters are overdue or you can see thick build-up, quickly lift the heavy deposits first using paper towels or a plastic scraper. This is not about “perfect cleaning” yet. It is just a smart time-saver. Removing the thick layer keeps your soak water cleaner and helps the hot soak work faster.

Hot soak to loosen grease inside the channels

Prepare a tub with very hot water and add a suitable detergent. Mix it through so the cleaner is evenly distributed. Lay the baffle filters flat and fully submerge them so all channels are covered. Let them soak for around 10 to 20 minutes. If the filters have been neglected, they may need longer because hardened grease takes more time to soften.

Brush the channels and edges

After soaking, brush along the channels and around the filter edges. Give extra attention to corners, joints, and the drain end of the baffle where grease tends to collect. The soak loosens grease, and the brushing removes what is clinging to the metal surfaces, especially in tight areas where hands cannot reach properly.

Rinse from top to bottom until the “slippery” feel is gone

Rinse in a consistent top-to-bottom direction so grease flows off in one way instead of spreading around. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear and the metal no longer feels slippery to the touch. That slippery feel is a good warning sign that grease residue is still present, even if the filter looks visually cleaner.

Dry fully before reinstalling

Stand the filters upright on a rack so water drains out of the channels. Reinstall only when they are fully dry. This reduces leftover residue, helps prevent odours, and stops dust from sticking to damp surfaces, which can make filters look dirty again quickly.

Dishwasher method (only if approved)

Some sites allow dishwashers for baffle filters, but only use this option if the filter is marked dishwasher-safe or your site’s SOP permits it. Place filters securely so they cannot rattle or damage the machine. Also avoid washing them with items you care about, because grease can redeposit onto other kitchenware during the wash cycle.To explore more effective approaches, read our post on commercial kitchen cleaning methods.

Step 5: Clean Metal Mesh Filters (When Your Canopy Uses Mesh)

Metal mesh filters trap grease inside multiple fine layers, not just on the surface. That is why soak time matters more with mesh than with baffle filters. If you only wipe the outside, the filter can still be greasy inside, which reduces airflow and makes the canopy smell and smoke more during service.

• Remove the filter carefully and keep it level: Slide the mesh filter out slowly and keep it flat as you remove it. Mesh filters often hold grease in the layers, and tilting them can cause drips and mess on walls, floors, or cooktops. Place the filter straight into a tray or tub to contain runoff. 
• Pre-wipe thick grease (only if needed): If there is heavy build-up on the outer surface, wipe or lift it off first using paper towels or a plastic scraper. This step is optional, but it keeps your soak water cleaner and helps the detergent work on the grease trapped inside the mesh instead of getting overwhelmed on the first layer. 
• Hot soak to release grease from the layers: Soak the filter in very hot water with detergent for about 15 to 30 minutes. The heat softens grease and helps it release from the inner layers. If the filter is overdue, you may need more time, but do not rush this step because soaking does most of the work for mesh filters. 
• Gently scrub both sides with a soft brush: After soaking, scrub lightly on both sides with a soft brush. Use steady, gentle pressure rather than force. The goal is to guide loosened grease out of the mesh, not to grind the metal. Pay attention to corners and edges where grease often packs in. 
• Rinse until the water runs clear and the mesh feels clean: Rinse thoroughly on both sides until the rinse water runs clear and the mesh no longer feels slippery or sticky. If water beads up and looks oily, keep rinsing because residue is still present inside the layers. 
• Air dry completely before reinstalling: Stand the filter on edge or place it on a rack so it can drain and dry properly. Reinstalling a damp mesh filter can lead to odours, faster grime build-up, and dust sticking to the wet metal.

Tip: Avoid aggressive scouring

Do not use harsh scouring pads or aggressive brushing on mesh. Mesh can deform easily, especially if it is thin. Once it bends or warps, airflow drops and the filter may not sit correctly, which can let grease bypass the filter and move into the ductwork.

Step 6: Electrostatic Filters (ESP) Basics

Electrostatic precipitator (ESP) filters are different from normal baffle or mesh filters. They use electrical components and internal plates or cells to capture fine grease mist and smoke particles. Because designs vary by brand and model, the safest approach is to treat ESP cleaning as a “follow the manufacturer” task, not a guesswork job. Cleaning them the wrong way can reduce performance, trigger faults, and in some cases cause arcing or shutdowns.

Confirm the model and follow the correct cleaning method

Start by identifying the ESP unit model from the label, manual, or site documentation. Each system can have different cell layouts, approved cleaners, rinse requirements, and drying times. Following the manufacturer steps protects the unit, keeps performance stable, and helps avoid repeated faults.

Remove the cells carefully and protect the internal plates

When you remove ESP cells, handle them gently and keep them supported. Do not bend the plates or damage the internal structure. Even small bends can affect how air passes through, how particles are captured, and how the unit runs once powered back on.

Clean, rinse, and dry fully before switching power back on

Use only the cleaner recommended for that model. Rinse thoroughly so no residue remains, then allow the cells to dry completely before reinstallation and power-up. Residue or moisture left behind can reduce performance and is a common reason for odours, faults, or “not working properly” complaints after cleaning.

When to stop and arrange a service

If you notice arcing, strong persistent odours, visible smoke getting through, or repeated faults after cleaning, stop using the unit and arrange professional servicing. These signs usually point to a problem that cleaning alone will not fix, such as damaged cells, wiring issues, incorrect reassembly, or internal contamination that needs specialist attention.

Step 7: Clean the canopy capture area (not just the filters)

In commercial kitchens, cleaning filters alone rarely fixes smells, smoke, or drips. Grease coats the whole capture zone.

Where grease builds up most

• Underside above fryers, grills, woks, hotplates
• Seams, rivets, corners, and edges
• Filter rails, slots, and the lip around the filter opening
• Light covers and heat-lamp areas
• Intake throat and plenum entry zone

Practical “clean” standard

• Surface feels smooth, not tacky
• No glossy grease shine or brown streaks
• No drips from edges or rails
• Light covers are clear, not yellowed
• Less burnt-oil smell during service

Simple cleaning workflow

1. Protect food-contact areas and equipment, place wet floor signage
2. Remove dry dust and debris first
3. Degrease canopy underside and edges, work in small sections
4. Detail filter rails and slots along the full length
5. Wipe light covers carefully, then dry immediately
6. Final rinse wipe (as needed), then dry everything

Avoid: abrasive pads that scratch stainless, and any method that sends greasy wash water uncontrolled into drains.

How often should commercial hood filters be cleaned?

Use grease load, not a calendar guess.

Low grease (light prep, minimal frying)

• Filters: weekly to fortnightly
• Canopy underside and rails: weekly

Medium grease (most restaurants, daily cooking)

• Filters: weekly
• Canopy underside and rails: 2 to 3 times per week wipe-down, weekly deeper clean

High grease (heavy frying, wok stations, char grill)

• Filters: 2 to 3 times per week (or more)
• Canopy underside and rails: daily wipe-down, frequent deep clean

If you can see drips, shiny film, or sticky rails, the schedule is not enough.

Ultimately, determining an appropriate schedule is key. It ensures a cleaner kitchen environment and enhances the hood’s functionality. As noted in the Australian Government’s YourHome guide on indoor air quality, proper ventilation and filter maintenance are essential for indoor air quality.

Quick airflow test (how to know it worked)

After reinstalling:

• Run the hood on low, then high
• Hold a paper towel near the intake, it should pull firmly toward the filters
• During cooking, smoke and odours should clear faster and spread less

If capture is still weak, it is likely not just the filters.

Kitchen Hood Filter Cleaning: Troubleshooting Guide

Even after a good filter clean, you can still get smells, smoke escape, or filters that look dirty again too quickly. The reason is usually simple: the removable filters are only one part of the grease path. Grease also builds up on the hood underside, the rails that hold the filters, the intake throat, and sometimes the fan or duct entry. Use this guide to find the likely cause and fix it without guessing.

Problem 1: Still smells after cleaning

Common causes

A lingering odour usually means grease residue is still sitting somewhere warm, hidden, or hard to reach. The most common spots are the hood underside, filter rails, light covers, and the corners where grease collects and turns black. Smell can also come from grease inside the intake throat or plenum entry, or from contamination near the fan housing or duct entry if grease has travelled past the filters over time.

What to do

Start by re-cleaning the capture area thoroughly, not just the filters. Wipe the underside of the canopy, the rails, the corners, and light covers until the surfaces no longer feel slippery. Pay special attention to black build-up in seams and around brackets. If the smell still persists after you have cleaned these areas properly, it usually points to grease further inside the system, so arrange a deeper internal clean and an inspection of the entry points to the fan and duct.

Problem 2: Still poor suction or smoke escapes into the kitchen

Common causes

Poor capture is often caused by airflow restriction or an imbalance in the kitchen air system. Grease can restrict the intake throat, build up in the fan housing, or reduce the opening at the duct entry. In some kitchens, the bigger issue is make-up air not working properly, blocked air paths, or doors being held open, which changes airflow direction and reduces capture. A very common and easy-to-miss cause is filters not seated correctly, leaving gaps that let smoke bypass the filter path.

What to do

First, confirm every filter is seated correctly and sits flat with no gaps or rattles. Then check the intake area for visible restrictions, especially around the throat where air is pulled in. If the system still struggles, do not keep guessing or repeatedly cleaning filters. Book a professional clean and an airflow check, because suction problems are often caused by internal build-up or ventilation balance issues that need proper testing and inspection.

Problem 3: Filters get greasy again very fast

Common causes

Fast re-greasing usually means the kitchen’s grease load is higher than the cleaning frequency, or grease is bypassing the capture area because the hood is not being used correctly during peak cooking. High-grease cooking like frying, grilling, and searing creates heavy grease vapour and needs enough capture time and correct fan speed. Another common cause is only cleaning the removable filters while ignoring the rails, underside, and grease path, so grease keeps dripping back onto “clean” filters.

What to do

Use the appropriate fan speed during high-grease cooking, especially during peak service. Keep the rails and hood underside on a frequent wipe-down routine, because these surfaces re-contaminate filters quickly. If the kitchen has a consistently high grease load, add a scheduled deep clean based on how the site actually cooks, not a generic timetable. A small increase in frequency can prevent heavy build-up, reduce odours, and improve capture performance.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During Kitchen Hood Filter Cleaning

These mistakes are common because hood filter cleaning feels routine, but they lead to injuries, damage, odours, and faster re-greasing. Avoiding them saves time and keeps the canopy working properly.

Cleaning while metal is hot

Hot stainless and hot grease can burn skin instantly. Heat also makes grease smear and spread, which makes cleaning harder. Always allow the cooking line and canopy to cool before you start.

Skipping isolation procedures

Working near the hood body, lights, or fan area without following site isolation creates an electrical and mechanical risk. Always follow the site procedure before cleaning around powered components, and never clean near moving air and electrics with the unit running.

Only cleaning filters and ignoring the grease path

Filters are just the first barrier. Grease also builds up on the rails, corners, underside, and intake throat. If these areas stay dirty, odours return quickly and clean filters get contaminated again within days.

Using abrasive pads that scratch stainless steel

Scratches create rough surfaces that hold grease and carbon, so future cleaning takes longer and grease sticks faster. Abrasives can also dull stainless and leave it looking permanently dirty. Use non-abrasive tools suited to stainless steel.

Rushing into harsh chemicals without checking compatibility

Not every degreaser is suitable for every surface. Wrong products can stain, pit, or damage stainless, aluminium parts, coatings, and seals. Use a product that matches the material and the grease level.

Mixing products

Mixing cleaners can cause dangerous reactions and strong fumes. It can also damage metal finishes and gaskets. Use one product at a time, and rinse thoroughly before changing to another.

Poor rinsing that leaves detergent residue behind

Leftover detergent creates a tacky film that holds dust and grease. It can also cause odours and streaking. Rinse until the slippery feel is gone and water runs clear.

Reinstalling filters while damp

Damp filters collect dust, hold odours, and can drip residue back into the capture area. Always let filters drain and air dry fully before reinstalling.

Letting greasy wash water run uncontrolled into drains

Greasy wash water can block plumbing and may breach site and local waste rules, especially if it enters stormwater. Contain the water, keep it out of stormwater drains, and dispose of it using the site’s approved method.

Grease-safe disposal tip

After cleaning, treat your soak water like greasy waste, not normal wastewater.

Let the water cool first so the fat rises and firms up on the surface. Once it is cool, skim the floating oil and grease using paper towels. Put the used towels into a sealed bag so it does not leak, then place it in the bin.

Any chunky food scraps or thick grease should also go into sealed bags before disposal. Do not pour oil or thick grease into sinks or floor drains. Even if it looks liquid, it cools inside the pipes, hardens, and sticks to the plumbing. Over time this causes slow drains, bad smells, and full blockages that can be expensive to fix.

Quick checklist

• Cool the water until grease floats and sets
• Skim with paper towels
• Seal and bin the greasy towels and scraps
• Keep oil and thick grease out of sinks and drains

When to call a professional for a clean kitchen hood filter?

Washing removable filters at home is only a good DIY option when the grease problem is truly limited to the filters themselves. If the rest of the canopy system is staying clean, airflow feels normal, and there is no hidden build-up, filter washing can be enough for routine upkeep.

Call a professional like Westlink Commercial Cleaners when you see signs that grease has moved beyond the filters and into the canopy body or the exhaust pathway. This is where risk increases because grease build-up is harder to reach, harder to remove properly, and more likely to affect safety and performance.

Call a professional if:

• Grease is dripping from canopy edges, rails, seams, or light covers
  This usually means the canopy interior is holding more grease than filters alone can catch.
• Smoke capture is still poor even after filters are clean
  If smoke and steam are escaping into the kitchen, airflow may be restricted by grease inside the canopy throat, fan area, or duct entry.
• Odours remain after a proper underside clean
  Lingering smell often points to old grease inside internal surfaces where wiping cannot reach.
• You can see build-up near key internal points like the intake throat, plenum entry, fan housing, or duct entry
  These are common choke points where grease sticks and gradually narrows the airflow path.
• Your kitchen does heavy frying, wok cooking, or high-volume service
  High output cooking loads grease into the system fast. A planned deep clean schedule helps prevent sudden failures, complaints, and shutdown risk.

Simple rule to remember: Filters are the start. If grease has moved into the canopy body, fan area, or duct entry, you need deeper cleaning and inspection.

Conclusion

Cleaning a commercial kitchen hood filter is not just a “remove, soak, reinstall” job. In busy kitchens, the filter is only the first stop in the grease path. To get real results, you need to clean the right filter type the right way, clean the canopy capture area (underside, rails, seams, corners, light covers), and then confirm performance with a quick airflow test. If smells, smoke escape, dripping grease, or weak capture continue after a proper clean, the issue is usually deeper in the system, like the throat, plenum entry, fan housing, or duct entry, or it can be a make-up air balance problem. Stay consistent with a schedule based on grease load, not guesswork. It keeps airflow strong, reduces odours, protects hygiene, and lowers fire risk.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I clean baffle filters with just hot water?

Hot water softens grease, but it does not remove it well on its own. Grease is oil-based, so you need a degreasing detergent to break the oil film and lift it off the metal. Use hot water to loosen, detergent to dissolve, then rinse until the water runs clear.

Are dishwashers OK for commercial baffle filters?

Sometimes, yes. It depends on two things:

1. the filter is rated as dishwasher-safe (usually stainless baffle filters are, but not always), and

2. your workplace procedure (SOP) allows it.
   If you use a dishwasher, place filters securely so they do not move, bang, or bend. Bent filters can leave gaps when installed, which reduces smoke capture and lets grease travel deeper into the system.

What is the fastest way to reduce canopy smells?

Start with the filters, then clean the surfaces where grease and heat collect most. Degrease the canopy underside, rails, corners, seams, and light covers. Smell often comes from warm, thin grease film on these areas, even when the filters look clean.

Why is smoke still escaping after cleaning filters?

Clean filters help, but they are only one part of the airflow path. Smoke often escapes when:

• grease build-up is restricting airflow inside the intake throat, plenum entry, fan housing, or duct entry, or

• the airflow and make-up air balance is poor (not enough fresh air coming in), or

• filters are not seated flat and there are gaps around the edges.
  If smoke is still escaping, it usually means the restriction or imbalance is beyond the filters.

How do I know filters are “clean enough”?

A clean baffle filter should not feel slippery or tacky. The metal should feel smooth, and rinse water should run clear. Look closely at edges, corners, and baffle channels. If black build-up or sticky film remains in those areas, it needs more cleaning.

What should we clean every day in a busy kitchen?

Wipe the canopy underside above heavy cooking lines, plus the rails and the filter lip. Daily wiping stops grease drips, prevents baked-on film, and slows down how quickly the system re-greases.

Can I pressure wash commercial hood filters?

You can, but be careful. Controlled rinsing can be fine for baffle filters, but aggressive pressure can bend edges, damage welds, or force grease deeper into joints and channels. Avoid blasting seams and corners. After washing, dry fully before reinstalling so the filters sit correctly and do not trap moisture.

Why do filters still feel slippery or smell after cleaning?

This usually happens for one of three reasons:

• grease is still on the filter, especially inside channels and corners,

• detergent residue is left behind, which can feel slick and hold odours, or

• nearby parts are still greasy (rails, seams, corners, light covers), so the smell returns quickly.
  If the filter and surrounding surfaces are genuinely clean and odour remains, grease may be deeper inside the canopy or near the duct entry and needs professional cleaning.

How do I know if a filter is damaged and needs replacing?

Replace or repair the filter if it is bent, warped, cracked, has broken welds, or will not sit flat. Also watch for rattling and visible gaps after installation. Gaps let grease bypass the filters and travel into the fan and ducting, reducing capture and increasing fire risk.

What fan speed should we use during service to reduce grease build-up?

Use a speed that maintains strong capture during peak cooking, especially for frying, grilling, and wok use. Running the fan too low lets smoke and grease escape into the kitchen and increases build-up on the canopy underside and rails. The goal is steady capture, not the lowest noise setting.