How to Clean a Cement Floor: Safe Steps for Sealed, Unsealed, Indoor and Outdoor Surfaces

Concrete floors can look “dirty” even right after you mop them, and that is frustrating because the problem is usually not the concrete. It is what happens on the surface during cleaning and drying. Most of the time, the “dirty” look is haze, not soil. When a cleaner is mixed too strong, when the mop water is already grey, or when the floor is not rinsed, a tiny layer of cleaner residue and loosened grime can dry into a thin film. Under sunlight or downlights, that film shows up as streaks, cloudy patches, or a dull grey cast, especially on sealed or polished concrete floor.

The second common cause is micro-scratching from grit. According to a study, micro-cracking occurs in concrete surfaces exposed to high temperatures above 250°C, resulting in localised cracking and dehydration of the cementitious paste. Scratches usually come from traffic plus grit like sand and dirt, which acts like sandpaper.
If you mop before removing dry grit, you can drag it and create micro-scratches that make the floor look hazy. Hard water can add a cloudy mineral film as it dries, especially where water puddles.

This guide walks you through safe steps for indoor and outdoor concrete, plus quick fixes for common problems like cloudy mopping haze, dusting unscealed slabs, oil stains, rust marks, mould, and efflorescence. You will also learn what to avoid so you do not dull a polished surface, strip a sealer, or etch outdoor concrete with pressure.

What people usually mean by a cement floor?

When someone says “cement floor,” they are almost always talking about a concrete floor. Cement is actually just one ingredient in concrete. Concrete is the finished hard surface you walk on, while cement is the binder that helpos hold the mix together.

For cleaning, this matters less than you might think because most “cement floor cleaning” tips apply to concrete. What matters most is the finish on top of the concrete, because the finish controls what the surface can handle and what products will work.

Here are the most common finishes people are dealing with:

• Sealed concrete: A protective coating sits on top or soaks in. You see it in homes, offices, and retail areas because is easier to clean, but harsh chemicals or abrasive tools can damage the seal and leave dull patches.
• Polished concrete: Mechanically ground and polished to a smoother, shinier surface. It is common in showrooms, lobbies, cafes, and modern homes. It looks great but can show streaks if you use the wrong cleaner or leave residue behind.
• Painted or coated concrete: Often found in garages, warehouses, and workshops. Strong degreasers, stiff scrubbing, or hot water can soften or lift weak coatings if you are too aggressive.
• Raw or unsealed concrete: More porous and more likely to hold stains, dust, and grime. Porous concrete found older slabs, utility areas, basements, outdoor patios, driveways, and footpaths. It usually needs gentler cleaning chemistry and more controlled water use, because it can absorb moisture and trap dirt deeper.

So when you hear “cement floor,” think “concrete floor,” and start by identifying whether it is sealed, polished, coated, or raw. That one detail changes the safest method, the best cleaner, and how hard you can scrub without causing damage. For a broader overview of maintaining various floor types, check out our floor cleaning guide.

Step 1: Identify your floor type (30 seconds)

Sealed concrete (common indoors)

Sealed concrete is popular indoors because the sealer acts like a protective top layer that helps resist stains and makes routine cleaning easier. A quick way to tell if a floor is sealed is to watch how it reacts to water and spills. On sealed concrete, water usually beads slightly or sits on the surface for a moment instead of soaking in straight away, and spills wipe up more easily without leaving an instant dark mark.

Cleaning approach for sealed concrete

The safest routine is gentle, because you are cleaning the surface of the sealer, not trying to “open up” the concrete. Use a pH-neutral floor cleaner or a mild detergent diluted in water, then clean with a microfiber mop or microfiber pad. Microfiber is ideal because it lifts fine dust and grime without scratching, and it reduces the risk of leaving streaks compared to rougher pads.

What to avoid

Avoid harsh acids and strong alkalis because they can break down the sealer over time, leaving the floor looking dull, patchy, or cloudy. Strong products can also make the surface feel tacky and attract dirt faster, which creates a cycle where the floor looks dirty again soon after cleaning. If you keep your products mild and your mop soft, sealed concrete stays cleaner, looks more consistent, and the protective finish lasts

Polished concrete (smooth, sometimes glossy)

How to clean polished concrete

Stick to a simple, gentle routine. Use only a pH-neutral cleaner, because polished concrete is sensitive to anything too strong. Clean with very little water (a damp mop is better than a wet mop), and use soft pads or microfiber so you lift dirt without scuffing the finish. If you are mopping a larger area, change the water regularly so you are not reapplying a dirty solution and creating streaks.

What not to use on polished concrete

Avoid anything that can dull or scratch the surface. That includes abrasive pads and powders, stiff brushes, and any tool that feels “gritty.” Also avoid acidic or highly alkaline cleaners, and stay away from products that leave a film, because polished concrete will show residue as haze and streaks, especially under strong light.

Painted concrete floor

How to clean painted or coated concrete?

Painted concrete has a visible paint layer or protective coating on top, which means you are concret floor cleaning the coating, not the concrete underneath. The safest method is gentle. Use a mild cleaner diluted with water, then scrub lightly with non-abrasive tools like a microfiber mop, soft brush, or soft pad. Work in small sections and rinse lightly if needed so the cleaner does not dry on the surface and leave marks.

What not to do on painted concrete?

Avoid anything that can scratch, lift, or soften the coating. That includes scraping tools, aggressive scouring pads, and heavy abrasion, which can peel edges and leave patchy spots. Also avoid strong solvents unless your goal is to remove the paint on purpose, because solvents can break down the coating, make it sticky, or cause it to blister and fail.

Unsealed or raw concrete (garages, basements, workshops)

How to clean unsealed or raw concrete ?

Unsealed concrete is porous, so it tends to feel dusty and chalky, and stains can soak in fast instead of sitting on the surface. Because of that, the best results usually start with more dry cleaning than you would do on sealed or polished floors. Sweep slowly, vacuum with a hard-floor setting, and remove loose grit first so you are not turning dust into muddy slurry when water hits it.

What works best for raw concrete?

Once the loose dust is gone, raw concrete often needs a deeper scrub to lift embedded grime from the pores, followed by a thorough rinse to flush out the dirty residue. Use a stiff nylon brush or a floor scrubber with a suitable pad, and rinse well so cleaner and dirt do not dry back into the surface. If you leave residue behind, the floor can look patchy and can dust again.

When sealing becomes the smarter next step?

If you keep cleaning properly but the floor still dusts easily or keeps staining, that is usually a sign the concrete needs protection, not “stronger cleaning.” After the floor is fully clean and completely dry, sealing can reduce ongoing dusting, slow down staining, and make routine cleaning much easier in garages, basements, and workshops.

Step 2: Start with dry Cement Floor cleaning (stops haze and tiny scratches)

Before you use any water or cleaner, start with a thorough dry clean. This single step does more for the final “shine” than most people expect.

What to do

• Sweep, dust mop, or vacuum slowly so you actually pick up fine grit, not just move it around.
• Work the edges and corners where dust and sand collect and where mops often miss.
• If you are vacuuming, use a hard-floor setting (no aggressive brush roll) to avoid scuffing.

Why this matters

Most “cloudy” or dull-looking floors are not caused by the mop or the cleaner. They start with the tiny bits of dirt you cannot easily see, like sand, tracked-in soil, and dry debris. When you mop over that grit, two things happen:

1. It scratches the surface in tiny lines. Think of grit like sandpaper under your shoes or mop head. These micro-scratches catch the light and make the floor look hazy, even if it is technically clean.
2. It creates streaks during wet cleaning. Dirt mixes with moisture and spreads into a thin film. That film dries unevenly, so the floor can look patchy or dull right after mopping.

Quick tip for better results

Focus on high-traffic paths first (entryways, hallways, kitchen routes, office walkways). That is where grit builds up fastest and where haze usually starts.

Step 3: The safe routine for cement cleaning indoor floors

Once you have removed the dry grit (Step 2), you can do a simple routine clean that keeps the floor clear and consistent without leaving streaks.

What you need

• A microfiber mop (flat mop or microfiber pad style works best)
• A bucket
• A pH-neutral floor cleaner (or a mild detergent if the floor is sealed and the label allows it)
• Clean rinse water

How to clean (the safe routine)

1. Mix the cleaner at the correct dilution.
   More product does not mean more clean. If the mix is too strong, it often dries as a thin film and makes the floor look cloudy, sticky, or streaky.
2. Damp mop in small sections.
   Your mop should be damp, not soaking. Over-wetting can push moisture into edges and joins, and it also makes residue more likely because the dirty water spreads farther before it dries.
3. Rinse the mop frequently and refresh the water early.
   If your bucket water turns grey, you are no longer cleaning. You are reapplying dirt. Rinse the mop often and change the water as soon as it looks dirty, especially in high-traffic areas.
4. Do a final pass with clean water if you see haze.
   If the floor dries and looks slightly cloudy or dull, do a quick rinse pass with clean water only. This removes leftover cleaner and lifts fine dirt that can cause a “film” effect.
5. Let the floor dry fully before anyone walks on it.
   Walking on a damp floor tracks dirt into the moisture and can leave footprints or dull patches. It also increases slip risk.

What right looks like

After drying, the floor should look even. No sticky feeling, no smeary shine, and no streaky lines along the mop path.

Step 4: Deep clean for dull, sticky, or patchy Cement floors

If the floor looks clean but still feels sticky, dries with cloudy patches, or has dull walk paths that come back quickly, routine mopping is usually not enough. These problems commonly happen when cleaner residue builds up, or when dirty water has been spread across the surface over time.

Best method

Scrub, then rinse well.
Deep cleaning is less about stronger chemicals and more about agitation plus a proper rinse.

How to deep clean (simple and safe)

1. Pre-wet the section lightly.
   A light pre-wet helps the cleaner spread evenly and reduces the chance of the surface “drinking” product too fast. Do not flood the floor.
2. Apply diluted cleaner.
   Use the correct dilution from the label. Too strong often makes residue worse, especially on floors that are already sticky or hazy.
3. Scrub with the right tool.
   • For small areas: use a stiff nylon brush (not metal, not abrasive pads).
     
   • For larger areas: use a floor scrubber if available, because it cleans evenly and speeds up the job.
4. Remove the dirty solution.
   Pick up the slurry you just created. If you leave it to dry, the dirt and residue settle back onto the surface.
   • Best option: wet-vac the dirty solution
     
   • Alternative: mop it up and wring out into a separate dirty bucket
5. Rinse with clean water, then dry.
   Rinsing is where many deep cleans fail. Use clean water and remove it again, then allow the floor to dry fully before traffic.

Pro tip that fixes most “cloudy after cleaning” floors
Cloudiness is usually a combination of cleaner residue + dirty mop water. The fastest improvement is:

• Use less product, not more
• Change water more often
• Add a clean-water rinse pass when needed

Stain Removal from Cement Floors: Quick Fix Guide

Rule: spot-treat the stain type

Do not nuke the whole floor with strong chemicals. Concrete is porous, and strong cleaners can damage finishes or leave residue.

Oil and grease (garage, workshop, driveway)

Best workflow:

1. Blot fresh oil (do not spread it).
2. Apply degreaser or strong dish soap and let it dwell 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Scrub with stiff nylon brush.
4. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat if needed.

If the stain is old and deep, improvement is realistic, total removal may not be. For more detailed tips on handling garage-specific stains and maintenance, see our guide on how to clean a garage floor.

Rust stains (metal furniture, pot plants, tools)

Workflow:

1. Wet the area.
2. Apply a mild acid cleaner suitable for concrete (or vinegar for light stains).
3. Short dwell time, scrub gently.
4. Rinse thoroughly.

Patch test first on polished, stained, or decorative concrete.

Paint, glue, and adhesive

Workflow:

1. Scrape gently with a plastic scraper.
2. Use a remover matched to the residue type (paint vs adhesive).
3. Rinse well and do a neutral clean after.

Avoid aggressive grinding unless you’re restoring the surface intentionally.

Mould and algae (outdoor shaded areas)

Workflow:

1. Remove loose debris.
2. Apply an outdoor cleaner designed for biological growth.
3. Dwell, scrub, rinse thoroughly.
4. Reduce regrowth: improve sunlight, airflow, and keep organic debris off the surface.

White powder or haze (efflorescence)

What it is:

• mineral salts pushed to the surface by moisture
  

Workflow:

1. Dry brush/vacuum first (do not wet it immediately).
2. with a concrete-appropriate cleaner.
3. RClean inse thoroughly and improve the moisture source if it returns.

If moisture continues under the slab or through walls, efflorescence can come back no matter how well you clean. According to a study outline from Maintenance Cleaning, masonry walls.

How to Clean Outdoor cement floors through pressure washing (safe method)

Why Pressure Washing Works Best With Control (Not Force)

Pressure washing gives the best results when you control three things: distance, angle, and runoff. If you rush or get too close, you can leave stripes, rough “etched” marks, or push dirty water into places it should not go. A controlled routine cleans faster, looks more even, and reduces risk to the surface and the surrounding area.

Step 1: Sweep First (Remove Grit That Causes Damage)

Before you turn the washer on, sweep the area properly. Sand, small stones, and loose grit act like sandpaper under pressure. If you skip this step, you can grind dirt into the surface and create dull patches or visible scratch patterns. Sweeping also helps the water flow where you want it, instead of building muddy puddles.

Step 2: Pre-Treat Stains (Especially Oil)

Pressure alone does not “fix” oil, it often spreads it or pushes it deeper into textured concrete. Pre-treating breaks the bond so you can lift the stain instead of chasing it around.

• Apply a suitable degreaser or stain treatment to oil spots.
• Give it enough time to work.
• Light agitation with a stiff brush helps on stubborn areas.

This step is what separates a “looks wet and clean” result from a truly clean surface once it dries.

Step 3: Use a Wide Fan Tip and Keep a Consistent Distance

For most flat outdoor surfaces, a wide fan spray is safer and more even than a narrow jet. The goal is uniform cleaning, not cutting into the surface.

• Keep the nozzle at a steady distance so you do not create light and dark bands.
• If you move closer for a tough spot, do it briefly, then return to your normal distance.
• Let the washer do steady work, not aggressive spot blasting.

Consistency is what gives you a clean finish without zebra stripes.

Step 4: Work in Even Passes (Do Not Etch One Spot)

Etching happens when you stay in one spot too long or hit the surface at the wrong angle. It can leave permanent marks, especially on concrete, exposed aggregate, pavers, and some coatings.

• Move in overlapping passes, like mowing a lawn.
• Keep your speed steady.
• Avoid stopping the spray while aimed at the surface.

If you need to pause, lift the wand away first. That one habit prevents most accidental damage.

Step 5: Rinse Thoroughly (So Dirt and Detergent Do Not Dry Back On)

Rinsing is not optional. If you leave dirty solution or detergent behind, it can dry into a film and make the surface look patchy or sticky.

• Rinse from high to low where possible.
• Push residue toward a controlled runoff path.
• Keep rinsing until the water runs clear.

A proper rinse is what makes the job look clean the next day, not just in the moment.

Step 6: Manage Runoff and Keep Detergents Out of Stormwater Drains

Runoff control is part of doing the job properly. Dirty wash water can carry detergent, oil residue, grime, and debris into stormwater systems, which is a common compliance issue and can also cause complaints.

Good runoff habits include:

• Use the minimum detergent needed and avoid over-application.
• Block or protect nearby drains if required.
• Direct water toward soil or a safe capture point, not the street gutter.
• Do not let soapy water flow into stormwater drains.

This protects the environment and also protects you from problems on-site. When pressure washing outdoors, treat runoff as a compliance issue because NSW EPA explains that stormwater flows to rivers and creeks untreated, and you should not let dirty washwater enter stormwater drains. 

Common Cleaning Mistakes to Avoid During Cement Floor 

Avoid these mistakes:

• Too much cleaner (causes haze and sticky film)
• Abrasive pads on polished or painted floors
• Letting chemicals dry on the surface
• Mixing chemicals without label guidance
• Flooding water into edges, cracks, or expansion joints indoors

Maintenance schedule for Cement floor Cleaning(simple, real-world)

High-Traffic Areas: Dry Mop or Vacuum Daily

Busy zones collect grit fast. That grit acts like sandpaper and causes micro-scratches, dull patches, and a “cloudy” look over time. A quick daily dry clean keeps the surface looking even and reduces the need for heavy scrubbing later.

Examples: entryways, corridors, kitchens, retail walk paths and lift lobbies.

Normal Traffic: Dry Mop 2 to 3 Times Per Week

For average-use spaces, you do not need daily cleaning, but you still want to remove dust and fine debris before it builds up. Two to three times per week is usually enough to stop that slow, stubborn film from forming.

Examples: bedrooms, meeting rooms, low-use offices, spare rooms.

Weekly: Damp Mop With a pH-Neutral Cleaner

Once a week, do a light damp mop to lift body oils, light spills, and sticky dust that a dry mop will miss. Use a pH-neutral cleaner because harsh products can strip finishes, leave residue, or make the surface look dull.

Key habits:

• The mop should be damp, not soaking wet.
• Change water when it turns grey.
• If the floor looks hazy, do a quick clean-water rinse pass.

Monthly: Deep Clean (Or As Needed)

A monthly deep clean resets the surface when it starts feeling sticky, looking patchy, or holding dirt in texture and edges. This is also the right time to focus on corners, grout lines (if any), edges, and buildup zones near doors and under furniture. If your concrete floor includes tiled sections, you might find our tile and grout cleaning guide helpful for those areas.

Do it sooner if you notice:

• dull traffic lanes
• sticky feel underfoot
• stubborn marks that return quickly after normal cleaning

When to Reseal: The Water Beading Test

Sealed surfaces protect better and clean easier. A simple sign it may be time to reseal is when water no longer beads on the surface.

You can check it fast:

• Drop a little clean water on the floor.
• If it beads up, the seal is still doing its job.
• If it spreads out and darkens the surface, protection is weakening.
• If stains start soaking in quickly, the seal is likely worn and you are at higher risk of permanent marks.

Resealing at the right time is cheaper than restoring a stained or etched surface later.

When to Stop DIY and Call a Professional For Cement Floor Cleaning

DIY cleaning works for routine dust, light marks, and basic maintenance. But some problems need professional cleaners like Westlink Commercial Cleaning, the right machines, safe chemicals, and a method that fixes the cause, not just the surface. If you keep pushing with the wrong approach, you can make the floor look worse or permanently damage the finish.

Use these signs as your stop point.

1) Polished Concrete Keeps Hazing or Losing Gloss After Cleaning

If you clean correctly and the floor still turns cloudy, dull, or patchy, the issue is usually not “more dirt.” It is often one of these:

• cleaner residue buildup
• hard water minerals drying on the surface
• micro-scratching from grit or wrong pads
• the polish/guard has worn unevenly
• the concrete needs a professional re-polish or burnish, not more mopping

A professional can test the surface, confirm what is happening, and use the correct pads and machines to restore clarity without etching.

2) Large Oil Saturation or Widespread Staining

Small oil spots can sometimes be treated at home, but once oil spreads across a larger area or has soaked in deeply, pressure washing and regular degreasers often fail.

Common DIY mistakes that make it worse:

• using too much degreaser and not rinsing properly, leaving a sticky film
• blasting with high pressure and spreading the oil into surrounding pores
• scrubbing with abrasive tools that roughen the surface and hold dirt

Professionals use better extraction methods, controlled dwell time, and the right chemistry to lift saturation without smearing it across the slab.

3) Post-Construction Residue Across Large Areas

Construction dust, plaster residue, grout haze, adhesive marks, paint mist, and silicone smears are difficult because they cover big areas and bond differently than normal dirt. DIY cleaning can create:

• patchy results (some areas look clean, others look cloudy)
• surface scratches from fine grit
• wasted time because you keep re-cleaning the same zones

A professional will match the method to the residue type and protect the finish while removing it evenly across the whole area.

4) Suspected Coating Failure, Peeling Paint, or the Floor Likely Needs Resealing

If you notice peeling, flaking, soft spots, or paint coming away, cleaning is not the solution. This is a surface system problem.

Signs the floor may need resealing or coating work:

• water no longer beads and stains soak in fast
• the surface feels rough or uneven in traffic lanes
• clear coat looks patchy, whitish, or worn through
• paint or coating is lifting at edges or corners

At this point, the right fix is usually strip and recoat, reseal, or targeted restoration. A professional can assess the coating type and choose a safe method that does not make the failure worse.

Conclusion

Cleaning a cement floor is really about cleaning concrete the right way for the finish on top. If you remember one rule, it is this: match the method to the surface, and match the stain treatment to the stain type. Start with dry grit removal, keep routine cleaning mild and low-residue, and only step up to deep scrubbing when the floor is dull, sticky, or patchy.

Most “bad results” come from avoidable habits like too much cleaner, dirty mop water, abrasive pads, letting chemicals dry on the surface, or using pressure to force stains out instead of pre-treating them. When you clean with control, rinse properly, and keep a simple maintenance schedule, concrete stays more even, less dusty, and easier to clean over time.

If haze keeps returning on polished concrete, oil has saturated a large area, construction residue covers big sections, or you suspect coating failure or resealing is needed, stop DIY. Those issues usually require the right machines, pads, chemistry, and a surface assessment to fix the cause without damaging the finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best cleaner for cement floors indoors?

For most indoor concrete floors, the safest everyday option is a pH-neutral cleaner made for hard floors. It lifts soil without leaving a sticky film and it is less likely to dull sealed or polished surfaces.
If your floor is unsealed and dusty, use a cleaner that is designed to bind fine dust and rinse well. Avoid harsh degreasers for routine cleaning because they can leave residue, strip sealers, or make the floor look patchy.

Can I use vinegar on concrete floors?

It is usually not recommended, especially on sealed, polished, or decorative concrete. Vinegar is acidic, and repeated use can dull shine, weaken certain sealers, and increase etching risk over time.
If you are stuck and must use it, keep it very diluted and test a hidden spot first, but a pH-neutral cleaner is a better long-term choice.

How do I clean unsealed concrete without making it dusty again?

Unsealed concrete dusts because the surface is porous and fine particles loosen with traffic. To reduce dust coming back:

• Dry clean first (vacuum with a brush head is best).
• Damp mop lightly with a pH-neutral cleaner, not a soapy mix.
• Rinse with clean water and let it dry fully.
• Use entry mats and regular vacuuming so grit does not grind the surface.

If dust returns quickly no matter what you do, the real fix is often sealing the concrete to lock down the pores.

Why does my concrete floor look cloudy after mopping?

Cloudiness is usually caused by residue, not dirt. Common reasons:

• Too much cleaner or using a product that leaves a film
• Dirty mop water being spread back over the floor
• Hard-water minerals drying on the surface
• Mop head or pad holding grease and grime

Fix: do a reset clean with less chemical, more frequent water changes, and finish with a clean-water rinse pass. If it is polished concrete and haze keeps returning, the surface may need professional maintenance.

How do I remove oil stains from a garage cement floor?

Oil is best removed with a degreaser designed for concrete plus dwell time and agitation.

• Blot fresh oil first (do not wipe it around).
• Apply a concrete-safe degreaser and let it dwell as directed.
• Scrub with a stiff nylon brush.
• Rinse thoroughly and repeat if needed.

For deep, old stains, a poultice-style oil absorber or professional treatment works better than pressure alone because it pulls oil out of pores instead of spreading it.

What should I use on polished concrete so it stays shiny?

Polished concrete stays glossy when you use pH-neutral cleaner, minimal water, and the right pads.

• Use a pH-neutral cleaner and a microfiber mop or auto-scrubber with the correct pad.
• Avoid vinegar, bleach, harsh degreasers, and “soapy” products that leave film.
• Keep grit under control with daily dust mopping in high-traffic lanes.

If shine is fading even with correct cleaning, it may need burnishing or professional reconditioning, not stronger chemicals.

Can I use bleach on cement floors?

You can, but it should be a last resort and used carefully. Bleach can discolor some finishes, weaken certain sealers, and it will not fix issues like haze from residue or mineral buildup. If you use it:

• Dilute properly, ventilate well, and do not mix with other chemicals.
• Rinse thoroughly with clean water.

 For routine indoor cleaning, a pH-neutral cleaner is safer and more consistent.

How often should I reseal a concrete floor?

It depends on traffic, the type of sealer, and how the floor is maintained. A practical rule is to reseal when:

• Water stops beading and starts soaking in
• Stains absorb quickly
• High-traffic lanes look worn or patchy

Many indoor sealed floors need attention every 1 to 3 years, while heavy-traffic commercial areas may need it sooner. The best approach is to use the water bead test a few times a year.

How do I remove rust stains from concrete?

Rust stains usually need a rust remover made for concrete because scrubbing alone rarely works.

• Pre-wet the area lightly.
• Apply a concrete-safe rust remover and let it dwell as directed.
• Agitate gently, then rinse thoroughly.
  Always spot-test first because strong rust removers can lighten or change the look of some concrete finishes. If the stain keeps coming back, the metal source may still be leaking.

Can I pressure wash concrete without damaging it?

Yes, if you wash with control, not aggression.

• Start with a wide fan tip and keep a consistent distance.
• Use even passes and keep moving to avoid etching one spot.
• Pre-treat stains instead of “digging” with pressure.
• Rinse thoroughly and manage runoff so detergents do not enter stormwater drains.
  Polished, painted, or sealed concrete needs extra care because high pressure can strip coatings or dull the finish.